Oporto is Portugal's second city, on the coast at the mouth of the Douro river, in the north of the country. The steep hills and cobbled streets make it a very attractive place to explore. Rainfall here is high, so pack an umbrella, whatever time of year you plan to visit.
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It is very easy from here to get down to the river and cross the Dom Luis Bridge to Gaia. For good views of Gaia walk over the top level but if you want to visit the lodges, go over the lower deck and turn right. Most lodges on the front offer guided tours followed by tasting and the opportunity to buy the wines. Calem is the first you will come to, followed by Sandeman. Those will a little more energy should walk further along to Ramos Pinto's yellow painted office, one of the most richly decorated in the town.
For many years, the Port region was all a well-kept secret. Hours from Oporto by train, and lacking decent roads, the only visitors were the shippers themselves, or the occasional wine-trade guest. There were no hotels no restaurants, taxis rare, hire cars unheard of, and there were few other facilities.
This has all changed in recent years. Good roads over the mountains link the region to Oporto and to the centre of Portugal, bringing the region within sensible travelling time from the coast. Tourists are now positively welcomed. New hotels and guest houses have opened up, with a number of quintas now offering bed and breakfast, and even one hotel offering all the comforts of a four-star
The train still takes hours, but is highly recommended despite that, and the roads in the region are tortuous and still offer some of the world's most frightening driving experiences.
Trains to the Douro leave from St Benito station a monumental building in the heart if Porto looking more like a civic hall than a railway station. The journey is worth the effort if only for the chance to see the station, internally decorated with the blue tiles illustrating scenes from Portugal's history.
The ponderous journey starts by going through the suburbs but before long you are out into the verdant landscape of Vinho Verde, eventually finding its way to the Douro, the river that gave Port life and is the railway's travelling companion all the way to Pochinio. After an hour and a half the scenery changes, gone are the green fields and mixed agriculture and, in their place, are the steep hills and terraced vineyards that are the Port region. Travelling at a sedate pace, in rolling stock old enough to still have photographer-friendly opening windows, and even doors that often remain open on the hottest days, this is the perfect introduction to the region.
The main towns are Regua and Pinhao, the former being the administrative capital of the region, the later the centre of the finest part of the region. Neither is particularly attractive, but both are well worth visiting. Further up river the train travels through towns like Tua, where you can still change trains for the narrow-gauge line up the Tua valley, or stay on the mainline for the stations that are there for the benefit of single properties. Taylor's Vargellas and Symington's Vesuvio are so remote that they are served by their own stations.
The biggest disadvantage of train travel is the difficulty of getting around within the region. You will find a few taxis in the main towns, but they are limiting. If you are only going for a day-trip, this can be fine, but driving yourself offers far greater flexibility, especially if you are staying in the region.
Getting to the vineyards from Porto is far easier than once it was. The old route following the river is picturesque but the motorway from Porto skirting north over the mountains is far quicker. Once in the area you will find many of the roads quite treacherous. In terrain like this, there are few straight roads and the people who know them well, particularly the farmers in their aged trucks, tend to drive as if it they are in some sort of rally.
Be warned. Portugal has some of the most dangerous roads in Europe, and those in the Port region take a lot of getting used to. Overtaking on bends is quite normal here, if only because straight roads are so rare. See the suggested itineraries for some recommendations of places to visit, but take care getting there.
The finest hotel in the region is The Vintage House at Pinhao. A converted Taylor lodge, this is such easy walking distance from the station that even in the days before conversion it was affectionately known as the first class waiting room. Now a small, world-class hotel, this is the place to stay, if you want top of the range hotel service.
You can now also stay in one of the quintas that now offer a bed and breakfast service. September can be difficult, however, as the quinta buildings revert to their original purpose of farmhouses for the staff and guests of the Port shippers.
The accommodation will be clean, comfortable and very friendly, but not luxurious. You are, after all, in a farmhouse, not the Ritz.
Portuguese food is hearty and filling, rarely fine cuisine but usually well made from very good, fresh ingredients. Look out for caldo verde, the cabbage and potato soup that is a staple of the north. Being inland, fish is not as common in the vineyard area as it is in Oporto, except for the ever-present baccalao. Pork and chicken dominate the menu inland.
Money: Portugal is a Euro-zone country.
Health: Take plenty of insect repellent - the humidity caused by the river encourages midges and mosquitoes. If travelling from UK, take form E111 in case of medical emergencies.
Temperatures: the area is very hot on the summer. Dress accordingly and carry plenty of water you may find it difficult to find a shop that is open when you need it.
Drink driving limits are lower in Portugal than in many countries at 20 mg/100ml, though the penalties less severe than in many counrties. Be warned however. On roads like these you need to keep your wits about you, so don't drink and drive.